skip to main content
US FlagAn official website of the United States government
dot gov icon
Official websites use .gov
A .gov website belongs to an official government organization in the United States.
https lock icon
Secure .gov websites use HTTPS
A lock ( lock ) or https:// means you've safely connected to the .gov website. Share sensitive information only on official, secure websites.


Search for: All records

Creators/Authors contains: "McAllister, ML"

Note: When clicking on a Digital Object Identifier (DOI) number, you will be taken to an external site maintained by the publisher. Some full text articles may not yet be available without a charge during the embargo (administrative interval).
What is a DOI Number?

Some links on this page may take you to non-federal websites. Their policies may differ from this site.

  1. Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave breaking. In two dimensions and in deep water, spectral bandwidth is the main factor that affects the roles these mechanism play. Existing studies, in which the relationship between spectral bandwidth and wave breaking onset is investigated, present varied and sometimes conflicting results. We perform potential-flow simulations of two-dimensional focused wave groups on deep water to better understand this relationship, with the aim of reconciling existing studies. We show that the way in which steepness is defined may be the main source of confusion in the literature. Locally defined steepness at breaking onset reduces as a function of bandwidth, and globally defined (spectral) steepness increases. The relationship between global breaking onset steepness and spectral shape (using the parameters bandwidth and spectral skewness) is too complex to parameterise in a general way. However, we find that the local surface slope of maximally steep non-breaking waves, of all spectral bandwidths and shapes that we simulate, approaches a limit of$$1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)\approx 0.5774$$. This slope-based threshold is simple to measure and may be used as an alternative to existing kinematic breaking onset thresholds. There is a potential link between slope-based and kinematic breaking onset thresholds, which future work should seek to better understand. 
    more » « less